Difference between revisions of "NG 900/9-3 Alternator Replacement"
| Line 15: | Line 15: | ||
* Serpentine belt | * Serpentine belt | ||
* Upper idler pulley | * Upper idler pulley | ||
| − | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_1.jpg|thumb|Fig. 1 - Airbox and Serpentine Belt]] | + | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_1.jpg|thumb|none|Fig. 1 - Airbox and Serpentine Belt]] |
====Crankshaft Access Panel==== | ====Crankshaft Access Panel==== | ||
| Line 23: | Line 23: | ||
* Front passenger wheel removed | * Front passenger wheel removed | ||
* Crankshaft access panel removed | * Crankshaft access panel removed | ||
| − | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_2.jpg|thumb|Fig. 2 - Crankshaft Access Panel]] | + | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_2.jpg|none|thumb|Fig. 2 - Crankshaft Access Panel]] |
====Strut Tower Area==== | ====Strut Tower Area==== | ||
| Line 32: | Line 32: | ||
* IAC valve inlet hose | * IAC valve inlet hose | ||
* MAP sensor cable (not the vacuum hose) | * MAP sensor cable (not the vacuum hose) | ||
| − | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_3.jpg|thumb|Fig. 3 - Strut Tower Area]] | + | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_3.jpg|none|thumb|Fig. 3 - Strut Tower Area]] |
====Components==== | ====Components==== | ||
| Line 43: | Line 43: | ||
Tensioner and alternator bolts are identical. Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster must be used on both ends of the bolts to get them loose safely. | Tensioner and alternator bolts are identical. Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster must be used on both ends of the bolts to get them loose safely. | ||
| − | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_4.jpg|thumb|Fig. 4 - Alternator Components]] | + | [[File:90093_Alternator_Replacement_4.jpg|none|thumb|Fig. 4 - Alternator Components]] |
Latest revision as of 12:51, 15 November 2009
Contents
Overview
The Bosch alternator used in the NG900 is supposed to last 100-150k miles, but driving conditions can shorten its life just like any other part.
Replacement
Tools
Steps
The alternator is located on the back side of the engine. The alternator pulley is the third from the top, below the upper idler pulley and the tensioner. The Haynes manual for RHD cars recommends removing the alternator "via the right-hand wheel arch" (fender), but this turns out to be impossible on LHD cars. I removed mine straight up between the engine and the strut tower brace.
Airbox and Serpentine Belt
See Fig. 1 The following were removed first to get good access to the tensioner and upper alternator bracket:
- Air filter housing
- Serpentine belt
- Upper idler pulley
Crankshaft Access Panel
See Fig. 2 The lower mounting bracket and bolt are to the left of the crankshaft pulley.
- Car was jacked up in front and supported on stands
- Front passenger wheel removed
- Crankshaft access panel removed
Strut Tower Area
See Fig. 3 To make room to pull the alternator straight up, the following was disconnected and moved aside
- Cruise control box wire connector (not cable)
- Purge valve inlet hose
- IAC valve inlet hose
- MAP sensor cable (not the vacuum hose)
Components
See Fig. 4 The idler pulley, belt tensioner, and upper alternator bolt attach to the same bracket at the top of the engine.
The tensioner is attached by a long allen-type bolt in the center of the spring arm, shown in the locked position.
The upper alternator bolt is hidden behind the tensioner arm. The lower bolt would be attached to a second bracket in the car which also goes around the left drive shaft.
Tensioner and alternator bolts are identical. Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster must be used on both ends of the bolts to get them loose safely.
